1.Creating a design

First of all, decide the design of the knitted fabric and obi to be woven, and create a design.

2.Refining

Before dyeing, a process called “refining” is performed to remove impurities, oil, stains, etc. from the threads.

3.Dyeing

We will dye the warp threads based on the design.
Natural dyes * 1 and chemical dyes are used as dyes according to the application and material,
and the dyes are fixed to the threads with mediators and color stoppers.

* 1 Natural dyes include plant dyes such as Fukugi, Smilax china china (Gour), Sharinbai, and Ryukyu indigo,
which have been around for a long time in Okinawa, and plant, animal, and mineral dyes
that came from outside the prefecture or abroad.

4.Glue

The warp threads are very tensioned when weaving.
Also, open the heddle up and down with strong force applied.
At that time, the warp threads are pulled up and down, and the warp threads next to each other are rubbed
by the continuous opening motion.
However, by gluing, it is easy to weave by preventing the warp yarn from fluffing and giving the yarn strength,
and it is glued so as not to impair the texture of the product.
Let it dry for a few days on a sunny day.

5.Pincushion

It is a work to gently rewind the heddle-shaped thread around a wooden frame or bobbin using a counterbore.

6.Warping

It is a work to align the required number and length of warp threads wound
around a wooden frame or bobbin according to the design with a certain tension.

7.Striped split

While checking the number, arrange the warp threads according to the design of the design.

8.Pre sleying

It is a task to pass the warp threads aligned by Warping and Striped split through Reed
in order while comparing them with the design.
By doing this “Pre sleying”, we will secure the weaving width.
Pre sleying will be removed after the warp, so we will put it coarser than Mai sleying.

9.Sutra winding

While keeping the tension of Sutra winding constant, sandwich Hatakusa (cardboard)
and wind it around the Sengiri box.

10.Threading(綜絖)

The mechanism that moves Tying up and down is called 綜絖:Souko.
Souko includes wire healds made of metal and threads made by design.
Souko has a hole through which the thread passes, and Tying is passed through it one by one.

11.Main Sleying

Main Sleying passes Maruha in order through Osame (gap for threading)
to thread weft while maintaining the original weaving width.
Unlike Pre Sleying, it will not be removed until it is woven, so pass it carefully.

12.Gaiting
13.Test Weaving

It is the work of setting the warp threads on the loom and preparing to start weaving.
At this time, tie it to the loom so that the tension of all the warp threads is constant.

After the Gaiting, perform a trial weave to check the overall tension balance and whether there are any mistakes in threading.
After confirming, weave design with several kinds of weft threads prepared according to the design,
and check the color balance of the warp threads.

14.Weft Dyeing

We will dye the weft according to the weft whose color has been decided.

十五.Reel・Pirn Winding

Wrap the weft around a wooden frame or bobbin and Pirn Winding it.

16.Weaving

Set the warp threads on the machine and weave the weft threads.

17.The Washing and Stretching

Wash the cloth such as obi and kimono with water, pull the funori, and adjust the width of the cloth with Shinsibari.

* Cotton products such as coasters are not washed.

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